Ghetuchi Mumbai

Ghetu's post provoked me...

I can identify with what Ghetu is going through right now. Each time I go to a new city I try to own it up. Making myself feel positive about it. I am convinced thats the best way to go. Sometimes it works but sometimes it doesn't.

I have been lucky till now. My experience with every city where I have spent some time has been mostly positive.

Calcutta, Mumbai, Delhi, Indore, Bangalore, Pune, copenhagen, San Francisco (and I really wish the list goes on and on) have all been great for me. If ever someone were to ask me to make a choice it would be damn difficult.

But this was about Ghetu's Mumbai and I apologise for digressing.

Mumbai has been my second big city experience outside Kolkata. In 1999, munmun and me, still unmarried then, saved some 5 grand from our meagre incomes and decided to hop on to a train to Mumbai. We wanted to see how life was there, to explore if we could make the city our own.

I had heard of Opu, her brother and his big shot wife, Guddi who worked for MTV. And that got me excited as I wanted to make a career like that developing content which could reach the mass. However I didnt know how it would work out. I didnt know them and here I was going to stay with them, invading the privacy of Mumbaikars.

They were at the station, Opu with his usual reticent first impressions and Guddi reaching out almost immediately. A weight lifted off my shoulder. I felt at home the moment I reached their house. I am sure from that day on, Munmun must have started dreaming of a similar life. I dont blame her. Is she still dreaming??

I was amazed by Mumbai, so different from Kolkata. Those flyovers, the pace of life, the beautiful sea, the activity, the clockwork timing. Kolkata seemed so sleepy in comparison. There were almost no ambassadors on the roads. The local trains packed some nice good looking girls and some nice prim professionals.

The BEST buses didnt allow us to board from the front door. And I remember the A1 ride - my first public air conditioned bus for Rs. 25. I remember Opu drawing money out from an ATM. I didnt even have a bank account then. Their gated lifestyle in Tarapore garden. I never visited a gated community before except in Mandeville Gardens.

It was also the time when Opu told me about email. kausik99@hotmail.com was opened. He told me that you dont need to go places to look for a job. You can do it online. He told me about "internet". He shaped my idioitc CV.

The Lokhandwala market, Linking road, Powai, Hiranandani Garden. I was spellbound. Almost dared to think I could survive there. And I didnt even venture to Colaba - the heart of Mumbai for me.

Since then I have been back so many times. Many times for work meeting Subhash Ghai or the folks at ICICI Bank, or DCB in Jogeshwari or even visiting the royal sea-facing office of HLL, going through the roads of Crawford market with sales agent of HLL who was visiting the Gujrati kirana stores.

I have visited Mumbai many a times over the weekend while I was in Pune. Starting with a hot shower, rolling around with Ayush in his make believe world, going to the shopping malls of Mumbai. Riding down the highway, going to the Juhu beach. So most of my Mumbai memories has been sweet and salty.

I love Mumbai because I have always gone there when I had nothing to lose. When I had a nice cosy place to stay. When I had warm water running down the showers cleaning my sweat stenched body. I have been in Mumbai When I had company money in my pocket which helped me to take a cab and not make it to an appointment in a train. At most times I had Opu and Guddi taking me around and spending for me.

I quite liked Mumbai's representation in Shantaram - ignore the patronizing texts for while. The book was one of the reasons that I came through Mumbai while on my way to SF. And anyways with Guddi around Mumbai is so very warm for me to go and feel comfortable.

But the part that I hate about Mumbai is the folks who are not true Mumbaikars. People who want to be owned up. They suck. Big time. They are vain. Insecure that somehow they have their head above the water but they can sink any time. Clinging on.

Every city has layers and shades. They refuse to acknowledge that. Acknowledge that travelling sucks in Mumbai. They refuse to acknowledge commuting during monsoon in Mumbai can be an ordeal. The traffic sucks. The "get on with your job bhai" temperament of some is so pathetic.

They refuse to acknowledge that every city has heart and character. That every city has some innate qualities that make them different from each other. That Mumbai is not the only city where people have a spirit.

Frankly Mumbai scares me as place to live and work. I just feel the city is going to gobble me and my personal life. But I think after spending time in so many cities of India I am slowly marinating to a stint in the city.

I agree with Ghetu, the best thing about Mumbai is the service oriented mindset. And its way ahead of any city in India. It runs like a clock.

Nothing epitomises it more than the Dabbawallahs. Or for that matter the ringing bell at exactly the same time for your daily milk and newspapers. Order for a kilo of potatoes and you will have it delivered. Having stayed in Kolkata, Hyderabad and Bangalore I know what happens when you dont have that kind of service oriented attitude.

And finally I love the Mumbai smell, thick with the air of the sea, almost sour if you open your mouth. You can close my eyes and take me to there and I will know its Mumbai. Just like I will know when its Durga Puja time in Kolkata.

I twice came close within sniffing distance of that smell, to make Mumbai my home. Maybe someday, maybe next time.